#1 – Château Pavie | 2010

As a matter of full disclosure, I consume a lot of Pavie, which has landed the #1 spot on my list for three consecutive years. It is no secret that I am much more attracted to the Merlot-reliant right bank (Pomerol and Saint-Émilion) Bordeauxs than just about any other varietal. But, Château Pavie is not only my favorite right banker, but it has also become my favorite Bordeaux period, including first-growth Bordeauxs like Latour and Rothchild. In 2023, I had Pavie from 1990, 1998, 1999, 2005, and 2010. Rather than take up five spots on my list, as they are all worthy of it, I decided to include my favorite from the group… and that was the 2010. Interestingly, in my Top Sips of 2022, I had the 2005 Pavie ranked #1 and the 2010 Pavie ranked #2. But this year, I felt as if the 2010 vintage, despite its youthful spirit, was the best sip of 2023. I find Pavie to be on the lighter side of the Bordeaux spectrum, but its elegance is undeniable: dense, intense, concentrated, yet elegant fruit with that deep, beautiful color and wonderful aromatics. As always, Pavie is ridiculously/perfectly balanced (acidity/sour v tannins/bitterness) with well-defined fruit and a phenomenal silky-smooth finish. (Retail: $499)

#2 – Château Angélus | 1994

Another beauty from Saint-Émilion! Much like the Pavie above, we had three different vintages of Angélus this year. When it was all over, it was the 1994 vintage that landed the #2 spot. Despite being nearly 30 years of age, this offering presented heavenly scents and spices, with that delicate hint of liqueur that most high-end Saint Émilion present. The fruit was still phenomenally pure and dense and, as always, it displayed an unmatched overall balance and finish. Chateau Angélus, led by the incomparable Hubert de Boüard, continues to impress with insanely delicate yet powerful and intense Merlot. (Retail: $530)

#3 – Sine Qua Non | Trouver L’Arène |Syrah | 2015

This wine producer makes some of, if not the best Syrah in the world. This one is 80% Syrah and presents a full-bodied, aromatic, and incredibly well-rounded beauty. Of all the SQN Syrahs, the Trouver seems to be my favorite. (Retail: $430)

#4 – Château Ausone | 2006

Proprietor Alain Vauthier has been making some legendary vino for some time. Robert Parker indicated that the 2006 Château Ausone was a candidate for wine of the vintage. This was a bucket list drop for me, and it delivered. Extraordinary fruit with an intense yet delicate finish and that all-exciting lightness that comes with most right-bank Bordeauxs.  

#5 – Bond Pluribus | 2008

In 2022, a 2005 representation of the Pluribus landed in the #5 spot. My comment at the time? “Holy shit is all I have to say!” The 2008 was just as ‘holy shit’ as Bond continues to offer some of the best American Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated red blends around. Most American reds have an unnecessary boldness and unbalanced finish to them. Yet, the Pluribus is stunning and composed and offers an unusual licorice finish usually reserved for a Bordeaux from, say, Médoc. (Retail: $395)

#6 – Château Troplong | 1990

Interestingly, on the same day we had this Troplong at my favorite restaurant in the United States (Jont), we also had the 1990 Château Pavie. The Troplong easily held its own with near-perfect balance, great fruit, dense tannins, and magical color. (Retail: N/A)

#7 – Sine Qua Non | The Hated Hunter | 2017

Another stunning Syrah from SQN!  This 2017 was 82% Syrah, displaying a big nose of black fruit with that all-too-familiar Syrah spice. With full-bodied richness, the 2017 vintage was silky smooth and presented no rough edges. (Retail: $298)

#8 – Levy & McClellan Proprietary Red | 2008

What’s this? An American Cabernet Sauvignon in my top 10? Despite its dense and concentrated blue-fruit characteristics, and unlike most Cabernets from Napa Valley, this beauty displayed restraint, offering gorgeous yet not overpowering fruit, outstanding balance, and a certain grace not often seen in Napa reds. I am a fan! (Retail: $398)

#9 – Château Ducru-Beaucaillou | 2000

We had plenty of Ducru this year, as we do most years.  But, compared to the 1996 and 2008 vintages, this offering from 2000 rose above the rest. As usual with this Saint Julien beauty, plenty of black currant with a hint of vanilla and spice dominating the palate.  Absolutely perfect in so many ways. I do have to say that last year’s #6 wine, the 2010 version of the Ducru, remains my absolute favorite vintage from this producer. (Retail: $380)

#10 – Cardinale | 2006

My absolute favorite Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa makes the top ten this year. In 2022, the 2015 vintage made it to #11.  To quote my comments from last year: “I know… I know!  How can this bottle be ranked ahead of some of the amazing wines listed below? Well, sometimes, our palates just work better than other days, and perhaps that is what happened on this night. But, sometimes, a particular bottle just shows up in a way it never has before.  I have had at least 20 bottles of Cardinale Cabernet Sauvignon in my lifetime.  I absolutely love this winemaker, and as far as Napa Cabernets, few have surpassed this beauty. On this night, with my perfect NY Strip, courtesy of Chef Fenton of Bourbon Steak in Aventura (FL), this bottle showed up in the best of ways.  Just a brilliant representation of what a Napa cabernet can be if done right, with patience, love, attention to detail, and with a hint of Merlot (9%) to bring in that amazing color and structure.” Well, I guess it showed up… again! (Retail: $360)

#11 – Kapcsandy Family Winery State Lane Vineyard Roberta’s Reserve | 2005

We have not stopped drinking Kap since we visited their vineyard in 2022. Unlike the 68% Cabernet Sauvignon from 2008, which was #9 on my list last year, this 2005 is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, with enough Merlot (14%) to provide that perfect body and balance.  I am not surprised I enjoy the State Lane Vineyard offerings from Kapcsandy given it has more in common with a first-growth Pauillac than many people might be willing to admit, given it ages for 20 months in primarily new French oak. (Retail: $450)

#12 – Château Pontet-Canet | 2010

How is this Pauillac Château only a 5^th growth? As always, it is full-bodied yet refined with that silky, velvety, smooth finish. Loved every sip. I happen to love wines from Pauillac due to the firm structure they present themselves in and, in most cases, this region offers some of the best aromatics from Bordeaux. No wonder Robert Parker and James Suckling gave it a perfect 100-point score! (Retail: $350)

#13 – Hundred Acre Deep Time | 2007      

A beauty from Jayson Woodbridge, undoubtedly one of the most colorful and talented winemakers in Napa Valley, Hundred Acre drank brilliantly. Smooth, yet it carried a punch due to its bold tannins. I loved every sip! We also opened a 2003 and a 2008 Hundred Acre Ark this year, but settled on the 2007 Deep Time for this year’s list. The 2007 displayed a better finish than the 2008 Ark, and also because the 2003 Ark was corked and down the kitchen drain it went. Welp! (Retail: $549)

#14 – Château Léoville Poyferré | 2000    

Robert Parker said the 2000 vintage is the “plushest, most ostentatious and dramatic of all the Léovilles.” I am no Robert Parker, but I agree that this bottle was lush in all the right ways.  Another Saint Julien beauty with great balanced tannins and a sexy and irresistible finish. (Retail: $280)

#15 – Catena Zapata River Stones | 2016 

My absolute favorite wine from my homeland of Argentina. This Malbec, with grapes from the vineyard’s dry riverbed and aged for 18 months, is a phenomenal full-bodied red with wonderful tannins and balance, with outstanding texture and aromatics. (Retail: $199)

#16 – Saxum Paderewski | 2014

A stunner from Paso Robles (Retail: N/A – 2016 = $175)

The 2014 Paderewski mixes Mourvèdre, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Syrah with a splash of Tempranillo. It is a sexy, full-bodied, well-rounded stunner with powerful notes yet supple tannins. It drank spectacularly! 

#17 – Michel Gay Et Fils Corton-Renaros | 2014

The first Burgundy on the list.  To say this Grand Cru Pinot Noir was impressive is an understatement. As with most good Burgundies, subtle tannins lead the way to an approachable experience, with wonderful aromatics and a very pleasant finish. (Retail: $145)

#18 – Castello Di Ama L’Apparita | 2010

Sort of like a right-bank Bordeaux… from Italy. This is one of the best Italian Merlots around with bold black fruit nuances yet elegant tannins, subtle finish, and easy on the nose.

#19 – Château Branaire Ducru | 2000

I had 1989 as well, but this bottle was a beautiful, mature, medium-bodied wine from Saint Julien. This region continues to make wonderful silky tannin cabernets with rich yet approachable texture and depth. Clearly, I am partial to St Julien Bordeauxs. (Retail: $199)

#20 – Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon | 2015

Deep garnet-purple colored, surprisingly, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon was more medium than full-bodied, and the palate was as tight as anything. As with most well-made cabs, the grainy tannins offered plenty of freshness to support the muscular fruit from this stunner. Don’t think it’s worth the price of admission, however. (Retail: $530)

#21 – Château Magdelaine | 1990

Another beauty from Saint Émilion is that this right banker had all the right notes and packed a punch regardless of her old age. (Retail: $235)

#22 – Château Pape Clément | 2014

Not exceptionally versed in Bordeauxs from Pessac-Léognan, but this dense, full-bodied Bordeaux was excellent, displaying great balance and an elegant finish. Easy drinker! (Retail: $180)

#23 – Bouchard Père & Fils, Les Cailles, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru | 2015 

Interesting burgundy, as I found it a bit more intense than usual. But the patent delicate spice was present. Full and fleshy on the palate, the structure of this wine is based on elegant tannins.  Simply a wonderfully drinking wine. (Retail: $135)

#24 – 2010 Château Lascombes | 2010

A very rare Bordeaux from the Margaux region on the left bank. Almost always Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, this left banker was a blend containing 55% Merlot and 40% Cabernet. No wonder I loved it! (Retail: $135)

#25 – Cappellano Otin Fiorin Pie Rupestris-Nebioli | 2010

For the final spot, I had to pick from a 2020 Sassicaia, a 2019 Pio Cesare (Barolo), and the above 2010 Cappellano. The Sassicaia drank young. Very indelicate fruit but primarily due to its age. The Pio Cesare was stunning, but, I chose the Cappellano, partly due to how difficult it is to find these bottles. It was such a treat to drink wine from a wine producer who is a Barolo region legend. In 1983, Cappellano banished all journalists from his cellar unless they agreed to review his wines without scores. He didn’t like the divisiveness that a scoring system created… and here I am scoring his wine. One of the better Barolo producers I have ever had the pleasure of tasting. (Retail: $450)

PARTING NOTES:

Fresh off a 9-day November trip to the Alba/Piedmont region, last year’s list comprised 18% Italian wines. But, with no Italy in 2023, this year’s list has only one Italian wine (though the list is only 25 wines long, rather than last year’s 50). Not surprisingly, the French outnumbered the American wines, with two Sine Qua Non’s on the list this year. 

Only four wineries received the top Classe A label when the Saint Emilion region, my favorite wine region in the world, was classified as Premier Grand Cru Classe. Those four chateaus were Pavie, Angélus, Cheval Blanc, and Asuone. In 2022, a fifth vineyard was added by the name of Château Figeac. I have had four out of the five, with the fifth, (a 2015 Cheval Blanc) sitting in my cellar just waiting to be enjoyed. Next year, perhaps!

Top Sips 2022

Top Sips of 2021

Top Sips of 2020