The Whet Palette Blog & Podcast NEW: MAASS by Chef Ryan Ratino Opens in Fort Lauderdale

All aboard MAASS’ maiden voyage

‘Twas the week before Christmas, when all through the south
not a MAASS chef was resting, not even a while.

The cookware unpacked by the kitchen with care,
in hopes that new diners soon would be there.

and so it happened. ChrisMAASS came early to Fort Lauderale.

December 21, 2023 Know that if I rush to a restaurant opening, there is a good reason behind it. In this case, three words: Chef Ryan Ratino. Most of the time, I can be harsh to outside concepts opening locally. But I broke all of my self-imposed rules for MAASS. Here’s why: I’ve been a fan of D.C.’s Hive Hospitality group (Bresca & Jônt) for several years, and two Michelin-starred Jônt became my favorite overall dinner of 2023. Last month, trailblazer Ratino even took the Young Chef Award at the MICHELIN Guide Ceremony in New York City.

MAASS, located at the Four Seasons Hotel and Residences Fort Lauderdale, is a luxurious contemporary wood-fire concept. Named after the late local architect Gustav Maass (who was responsible for designs in the Broward and Palm Beach Counties), the beachfront property stuns.

Follow the yellow-lit path hiding outside (behind the hotel lobby), past the exterior dining area, to enter the restaurant. Designed by London-based Tara Bernerd & Partners, a quaint atrium highlights collage wall prints by contemporary German artist Ovska, and welcomes diners with its comfortable lounge seating. Sandy palettes of whites and taupes fill the interiors, with pops of sunny yellow and deep ocean blues supported by ash-blonde woods, and cane-backed booths.

The winding space then opens, revealing the bar area dining room. MAASS houses one of the most exceptional kitchens I’ve ever seen— one that might even equal the square footage of the entire dining room side. The culinary theatre is on display, and its performance becomes part of the experience. Surrounding the space is seating at the chef’s counter for about a dozen diners where a tasting menu will be available within the next couple of months.

The talented team, led by Ratino and Executive Chef Jonathan Kaiser (Ocean Reef Club in Key Largo & Las Vegas’ Joël Robuchon), appeared calm and in control with their supporting cast of at least 15 on the kitchen floor. Who performs like they’ve already been open for months? They did! An enthusiastic group of servers paraded through tending every table under the keen eye of managers who coached, and guided with expert hands. Details, such as welcoming handwritten notes for those dining with a reservation, have always been a strength of Hive Hospitality. It was no different at MAASS. Much like the D.C. locations, the food arrived with impeccable presentation and finesse (unique dishware for each course, exquisite flatware, and impeccable plating). Fun highlight: expect an untraditional playlist.

Inspired by European and Japanese techniques, this soon-to-be hotspot debuted courses on opening night showcasing ingredients sourced from markets across these two regions, plus several domestic gems. Ratino explains, “We are using some Florida farms like Harpke Family Farm, Swank Farms, and Bhumi Growers, who partner with some citrus growers. We are also using Chef’s Garden in Ohio, where I grew up, and bringing some Virginia/D.C. with the Edwards Surryano Ham. On our end, diners will see a good amount of citrus in our cooking here to replace other acids.”

What dishes will become classics? My bet is on the Foie Gras Macaron (peanut, strawberry, sesame), “Buffalo” Wings (lobster, koshiibuki rice, and kanzuri), and MAASS Avocado (king crab, golden ossetra caviar, and nori cracker). The signature Dry Aged Duck, also available at Bresca and Jônt, includes kishu mandarin and foie gras sausage for this South Florida location.

“We are excited to bring our passion for hospitality to the Four Seasons and Fort Lauderdale. It’s full circle for me to be cooking back in the state of Florida. Very exciting.” Chef Ratino, who attended Orlando’s Le Cordon Bleu in 2009, expands. He then launched his culinary career as a junior sous chef at Shula’s Steak House (Walt Disney World Swan and Dolphin resort) and spent three years working under Todd English at Bluezoo.

Overall, I am thrilled for this talented team to find their place within South Florida and Fort Lauderdale—a city not yet widely known for its fine dining options. With my experience now having dined at all three of their concepts (Bresca, Jônt, and MAASS), I can confidently conclude that when the MICHELIN Guide decides to add Broward County, MAASS will be one of the headliners.