Transcript has been condensed for space and to maximize flow.
Host: Welcome to a very exciting episode of The Whet Palette Podcast. I’ve been waiting for this one for quite a while. Today’s guest is a bit of a unicorn. We’ll call her “P” to protect her anonymity. She spent over 20 years as one of the Michelin Guide’s famously secret inspectors.
P is here to share her story, answer listener questions, and pull back the curtain — just a little — on the world’s most mysterious dining authority.
Beginnings: From Sicily to the Michelin Guide
P: I was born and raised in Sicily, then moved to the Bronx in 1975. I adore the Bronx — it’s still my home. I worked for Barbara Walters as the first business manager at The View. While there, I earned a BA in Cultural Anthropology and later a master’s from NYU.
At NYU, I met the woman who would become the Michelin Guide’s U.S. director in 2005. She was then working for the Exxon Mobil Travel Guide (now Forbes) and hired me as a consultant. For almost two years, I reviewed restaurants and hotels — mostly in New England — while still working full-time at ABC. That experience proved I could evaluate a property against exacting standards.
When she moved to Michelin, she encouraged me to apply as an inspector. The application process was extremely rigorous, but I got the job.
Training Without a Manual
P: There’s no manual. You learn by shadowing seasoned inspectors — some with 40 years’ experience — in the U.S. and abroad. I trained in France, England, Germany, Italy, and Belgium.
You’d join a veteran inspector for a meal, then by the time you reached the car afterward, they’d already formed their decision. They expected you to have yours, too — and then defend it. They challenged everything. Mistakes were part of the process.
How Stars Are Decided
P: It’s a democratic process. No one person decides. You submit a report, it’s discussed, and at least one or two other inspectors must confirm the result through their own visits. That’s true whether the outcome is a star, no star, or a promotion.
With only about 130 inspectors covering nearly 19,000 restaurants in 37 countries, logistics are tough. To confirm a star, you need at least two visits — sometimes more.
Staying Anonymous
P: In Europe, inspectors might stop by a property between meals to verify factual details — but never during the actual dining experience. In the U.S., we stopped doing even that after six months. Social media made it too risky.
Meetings of the Stars
P: We hold séances des étoiles — “meetings of the stars” — more than twice a year now. Inspectors defend their proposals in detail. Even if I disagreed with the final decision, the process was fair. And there’s always tomorrow — talented chefs will be discovered.
Food First, Always
P: Michelin awards stars for the food, full stop. Service and ambiance don’t determine the rating. That said, at the three-star level, you can’t have sloppy service because it impacts the food’s presentation and timing.
I’ve had meals where I was treated poorly but still confirmed the star because the food was extraordinary. I’ve also been moved to tears by a dish that felt like a symphony.
Life as an Inspector
- Meals per year: About 350.
- Youngest colleague: 28 years old.
- Expenses: Fully covered; inspectors are salaried and have corporate credit cards.
- First solo confirmations: About 18 months into the job.
Myths About Pay-to-Play
P: Tourism boards may pay Michelin to bring the guide to their city, but restaurants do not — and cannot — pay for stars. Running the guide is expensive: inspectors’ salaries, travel, hotels, and meals all add up. The tire company doesn’t foot the entire bill for the guide, so outside funding is necessary.
Advice to Aspiring Star Chefs
P: Don’t cook for the star. Find your core — the message you want to send through your food — and stick to it. Diners at star restaurants are well-traveled; they’ve seen trends before. Make your voice unique.
Memorable Moments
P: The best meals aren’t necessarily the fanciest. Sometimes it’s eating exactly what I want, in the right mood, in the right place — often in Italy.
I’ve cried over dishes. I’ve lost sleep before announcements. I care deeply about this industry.
Leaving the Job
P: After 20 years, my body couldn’t take twice-a-day fine dining anymore. It’s taxing physically. I retired in early 2024. Michelin was an incredibly generous and professional company, and I’ll always be a cheerleader for them.
Selected Listener Q&A Highlights
- How do you find restaurants? Constant research: local blogs, podcasts, newspapers, and walking neighborhoods. The best finds often aren’t online.
- Different standards in the U.S. and Europe? Officially no; stars are based on the same criteria.
- Green Stars: Michelin could improve clarity and consistency. If you think a chef deserves one, write to them.
- Tourist traps? If a restaurant keeps its star, inspectors have re-confirmed it.
- Becoming an inspector: Watch Michelin’s career page and LinkedIn; postings appear sporadically.
Host: P, thank you for sharing your story with such openness. Your insights give a rare, candid look into a job most of us can only imagine.
P: This was my first and only interview. I did it because I respect your work: you’re fair, clear, and you correct misconceptions. That matters.
Do you have thoughts on the Michelin Guide, restaurant ratings, or dining trends? Share them in the comments or email me at info@thewetpalette.com.
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