When the World’s 50 Best Restaurants roster drops each year, Peru—and especially Lima—inevitably pulls me in. On a previous trip, I chased five acclaimed spots: Central (#1), Maido (#6), Kjolle (#28), Mayta (#47), and Mérito (#59). If you’ve been mulling over a gastronomic pilgrimage, here’s my refined itinerary—day by delicious day
THURSDAY
FLIGHTS: DELTA operated by LATAM Airlines
Our journey began with a seamless four-hour overnight flight: Miami → Lima, aboard Delta operated by LATAM. Thanks to our upgrade to premium business, the transit felt more like a warm-up than a trek. Once we landed, we breezed through luggage claim and found our driver from Trip Remisse waiting just outside customs—a reassuringly safe choice. In under an hour, we were at our hotel.
HOTEL: AC LIMA MIRAFLORES by MARRIOTT
We stayed at AC Lima Miraflores by Marriott, a boutique-influenced property conveniently perched just beside the Larcomar Shopping Center. It doesn’t have a pool or spa, but the modern and spacious rooms opened to sweeping ocean and sunset views. Its location made navigating the city effortless—everywhere felt within reach via Uber.
LUNCH: #6 Maido
Restaurant lists inspire and encourage food enthusiasts to travel, learn, and step out of their comfort zone. More often than not, they lead diners to great journeys—at least, that has been my experience. I approached Maido with high expectations—and it was a rare miss. While many elements showed talent, several dishes were overly sauced, masking the primary ingredients. Some plates felt repetitive or lacked originality. The “wow” factor was elusive. The four of us left underwhelmed—this was the one restaurant on the list that truly fell short.
SIGHTSEEING: LARCOMAR Shopping Center
Post-meal, we wandered through Larcomar. Though many shops were familiar brand names, we discovered gems like Anntarah’s alpaca boutiques. The oceanfront views from the cliffs reminded us exactly where we were—in a place of contrast, beauty, and brilliance.
DINNER: #47 MAYTA
Mayta redeemed our day. In one evening we tasted the breadth of Peruvian terroir—sea, mountain, and forest—through bold, creative pairings. We even sampled alpaca, echoing the plush garment I had just purchased. The food, presented eclectically, showcased hours of research, technique, and creativity, proudly representing some of Peru’s rich bounty offerings.
FRIDAY
MORNING: CITY TOUR
We arranged a private tour with Las Rutas de Renzo, weaving through the Huaca Pucllana ruins and the Iglesia Matriz de Miraflores en el Parque Central. Renzo’s stories brought the city’s layers to life. And yes—there was a stop at ChocoMuseo. Chocolate-related detours, while touristy, are mandatory. Renzo was an engaging storyteller. He tailored the tour to our interests (and attention span). Highly recommended!
LUNCH: #28 KJOLLE
Kjolle quickly became my favorite restaurant in Peru. Sitting pretty next to #1 on the list, Central, Kjolle shares the lush garden surrounding the restaurant from which they forage and source fresh ingredients daily.
As the first guests to arrive, the Kjolle experience began the second we stepped inside. Aromatherapy lushly filled the room, and an Amazonic playlist reminded me this would be a Perucentric menu. All senses engaged.
The attention to detail was impeccable: gorgeous locally made flatware, bowls, and plates, all in beautiful colors and textures, often using a mandarine dye from the Kjolle tree, high in the Andes. Including many Indigenous ingredients, the talented chef and visionary Pía León presented a menu elegantly showcasing Peru’s diverse regions, from the Pacific Ocean and the Amazonian forests to the Andes mountains, valleys, and lakes.
Despite the incredible attention to every aspect of dining at Kjolle, the food ultimately impressed me the most. The tasting menu took me on an unforgettable expedition. Truly exceptional. Dinner wrapped up with a personalized gift from the team and an incredible mini tour of the many handmade one-of-a-kind items featured at Kjolle. Simply amazing!
DINNER: #59 (now #55) MÉRITO
Ranked at #59 on the World’s Best list in 2023 (now #55), MÉRITO is quite remarkable and a must during a visit to Lima, Peru.
The boutique-sized space in the Barranco District served powerful Venezuelan-Peruvian-inspired bites by Venezuelan Chef Juan Luis Martínez. We couldn’t get enough of the menu and were left longing for more—that says it all.
Every dish was presented beautifully, but it was beyond aesthetics. The highlights for our party were the Cangrejo Popeye, Arroz de Setas, and the Flan. Not JUST a flan. It’s one we returned for during our trip several times. The best I’ve ever had. In my life.
In Spanish, Mérito means “a praiseworthy quality.” I can confidently say that Mérito is indeed praiseworthy and worth it!
SATURDAY
MORNING: SHOPPING and (more) FLAN
We got our fix at Dédalo Arte y Artesania, a labyrinth of Peruvian craft and contemporary design without an ounce of kitsch. Tucked away toward the back is a tree-shaded cafe where you can pause for some bakery goods and a cafecito. Sadly, we didn’t get to try that section, but we did return home with quite a bit of Dédalo goods. Once done, we enjoyed a few pre-lunch “snacks” at the sister restaurant to Mérito, DEMO. And by snacks, I 100% mean we had the Mérito flan again, thankfully also available at the cafe.
LUNCH: #1 Central
(Moving to the Best of the Best list 2024- a list of all the restaurants that have topped the annual poll of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants over its history, which are no longer eligible to be voted on new editions of the list.)
Central sits on a large compound and hides behind imposing iron doors, privacy walls, with security personnel outside. As we did the day before for Kjolle, the walk to the front door took our party through the lush chef’s garden from which the team sourced daily.
We were welcomed with a quick tour of the seasonal ingredients featured during our meal. I finally understood why Central was named #1. Central is Peru. Peru is Central. There is no one without the other.
There is purpose and intention in everything. From the textures, to the natural color palettes, and mind-blowing artisanship on display, nothing is left up to chance. But it’s not a show, although it’s easy for it to feel like it.
Chef Virgilio Martinez successfully creates an immersive experience at his restaurant by passionately undertaking and achieving the task of showcasing Peruvian ecosystems: its terroir and waterways. With much heart and an apparent obsessiveness for perfection, he parades the country’s multifaceted culture. The tasting menu, the main event, delivers on flavors. Some expected. Others foreign. All exceptional.
Central is unlike anything I have ever experienced. Bravo!
DINNER: ISOLINA Restaurant
After a much-needed break from our extensive food adventures that day, we returned to the Barranco area. Inside a historical building, Isolina offers soul food como si mami estuviera en la cocina. I hate to admit that, by then, we might have been a bit saturated from the ambitious food quest itinerary, but fear not—we soldiered on.
Accompanied by a light local lager on draft, we started with the butifarra de lechón enrollado, pan con chicharrón, almejas a la chalaca, chala escabeche de bonito, and a plato de papas y choclo. We chose tallarines verdes con lomo apanado, an asado de tira con arroz, and a guiso de mollejitas for our entrees. When the perfect strangers seated next to us couldn’t make a dent in their entree and invited us to dig in, we said no, we happily obliged—all in the name of community, of course.
The marathon officially concluded with another flan and a couple of arroz con leches. And just like that, it was over.
I’d like to now highlight several things that impressed me about Peru and were a common theme throughout our stay: the exquisite uni, the addicting coffee, and the refreshing muña!
Uni: Peru’s rich, firm, and buttery golden uni was unlike any other I’ve ever tried. Dare I say it, it could give Hokkaido uni some fierce competition. Controversial take, I know. I’ve inquired about importing it to the US. So far, I have found that the infrastructure and logistics aren’t properly in place. Apparently, 80% of the uni’s quality can be easily lost during transport because of its delicate nature. I remain hopeful a solution can be found one day so that we can enjoy this anywhere in the world.
Coffee: The café served everywhere was bold and velvety, with generous crema rims, even when served simply black. Dark, nutty, and highly aromatic. What a treat!
Muña: Featured on most of the menus during the trip, the Andean herb was used in palate cleansers, desserts, and teas. With its refreshing minty profile, the plant is the perfect addition for its anti-inflammatory and digestive benefits.
Can’t get enough of Peru? Check out additional photographs of every restaurant below:
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